• luca turin

Les Années 25 (Tauer) ***** citrus oriental

Updated: Aug 29, 2018

The name is a humorous riff on Années Vingt, the ‘Twenties. There was of course only one Année 25, the year of the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris from which the term Art Déco is derived. Not coincidentally, 1925 is also the birth year of Shalimar, one of the two caryatids holding up the front entrance to Orientals, the other being Coty’s Emeraude four years earlier. Andy Tauer was clearly channeling Shalimar when composing this one, and I am full of admiration for the fact that he even tried, given that every fragrance firm has had a go, not least Guerlain itself with fully 18 flankers that bring to mind aerial pictures of carpet bombing where the target stands intact surrounded by bomb craters. What does Tauer bring to the picture? Let us start with what he takes away: this is vastly less vanillic than the current Shalimar, and more reminiscent of old Shalimar vintages I’ve had occasion to smell, with a strong, bracing, perky citrus blast up top. Second, Tauer long ago perfected a once-in-a-lifetime signature accord which first appeared in l’Air du Désert Marocain. It is a magnificent dry-spicy-woody thing that is so much more than the sum of its (mysterious) parts that I fancy it must have lit Tauer’s lab with a blinding golden glow when he first chanced upon it. He cleverly shoe-horns his base in place of the Shalimar core, as one would winch a supercharged V10 down into the nose of a cute convertible. The result is a snarling, magnificent beast of a fragrance, radiant to the far corners of the room, delicious up close and loud as a flame-spitting exhaust. I love it. LT

sample kindly provided by Fumerie Parfumerie @FumeriePDX

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© 2018 by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez.